In keeping with our usual theme of helping the DIY techs out there, we tend not to get too deep in the weeds with technical stuff. That’s because, based on lots of input from customers, you guys want to know how to fix your appliance and don’t have a need to know all the details because you’re not full-time techs. Unless, of course, you ask us. Then we’re ready and willing to share that, too. 


F1E0 – EPROM Communication Error

F1E0 EEPROM Communication Error


Whenever you see this error, it’s going to be a main control problem. The only fix is a new board.

Today’s article covers the error codes for the Whirlpool WEG730H0DS0 gas range. I chose this model because of the popular fan code, F8E0. I’ll address this code a little later. The error code applies to Kitchenaid, JennAir, Maytag, and Whirlpool gas and electric slide-in ranges, including induction.  But for now, I’ll show you more common codes and leave the obscure ones where they belong. In obscurity, at least for now! 

For the most part, anytime you see an F1 code, it’s a sign of trouble. It’s almost always a communication error generated by a bad control. If you’re lucky, you can get by with cycling power, but even that won’t last long. The only suggestion is to replace the main control. 

F2E1 –  Stuck Keypad

F2E1 Stuck Keypad

The error sounds pretty straightforward and usually means the keypad failed. But, if the user happened to press a key too long, this code would show. Cancel clears the code. If a key is stuck, cancel has no effect. 


F8E0 and F8E2 – Cooling fan speed too low or too high


F8E0 and F8E2 Cooling Fan Speed Errors


There has been a lot of talk about the real cause of this problem. Over the years, I think about half of the time, the hall effect sensor failed. That was in the early days of this error. Whirlpool started shipping the sensor with the fan. So, to cure the problem, just replace both, and you should be good to go. 

I think the biggest problem with this error code was how to remove the fan. Some videos show how to remove the top with a gas range. Removing the manifold isn’t necessary, and you run the risk of a gas leak when finished. If you’re an experienced technician, then do what you feel is best. For the average DIYer, I wouldn’t recommend going through all the extra work unless you have the experience. 

After you remove the top, you can remove the left side panel to expose the fan and connector. If yours is an electric version, removing the top is a cinch. Following is a tip about handling the front console. 

Fab two pieces of stiff wire into the shape of S hooks. The pieces should be about three inches long. When you unscrew the console on the front, use the hooks, one on each side of the console, to hook onto the bracket still attached to the range. You’ll see plenty of places to attach the hooks. The hooks keep the console out of your way and won’t damage the harness and mylar ribbon cable.

Also, be sure to order the fan version that includes the hall effect sensor. Call our Parts Department to order: 833-876-0900 Ext 5. Here’s a picture of the correct part:

Picture of Cooling Fan Including Hall Effect Sensor

So far, I’ve been talking about errors in the gas or electric version of this model. The induction oven version is identical to the electric model except for the cooktop’s different lasered etchings. 

I haven’t included information about the induction version of this model because it requires guidance from an experienced technician to understand the process involved with induction cooking. Please don’t hesitate to reach out to Neli before attempting to troubleshoot any issue with your induction cooktop for safety reasons. Honestly, there’s too much going on under that cooktop, and you should never try it if one of us isn’t helping you.  

I hope today’s post lends some much-needed help on a few of the issues that come up now and then with these ranges. As always, if you need our help, we are only a click away!