It’s 2020, and this All-In-One is a recent addition to WP’s laundry lineup. The new unit fits into those tight spaces all technicians have had the experience of removing them for service. Let’s hope this machine lives up to the hype. By the looks of it, this machine isn’t overly complicated despite all the extra features.

The cool thing about this is that it’s an all-in-one that works. Flawless? Nope. None of them are that good. I don’t know how you feel about these machines, but when they work well, they’re handy and soon, you might realize you can’t do without the convenience.

Like I always say, everything breaks at some point and if you don’t know where to begin troubleshooting, frustration kicks in and nothing gets done. So, let’s move on to some of that troubleshooting, shall we?

Theory of Operation

First things first, as they say. You can’t troubleshoot a problem if you don’t understand how they designed your All-In-One and how all the parts work together. I’ll start there.

Dry Cycle Theory

  1. Blower – Generates process air flow through the heater channel, tub, and condenser duct.
  2. Air Heater – Heats the air, so it gets into the tub at high temperature and reduced relative humidity.
  3. Heater Channel – Conducts hot process air into the tub, so it can remove humidity from the laundry.
  4. Inlet Air NTC (negative temperature coefficient) – Used as a feedback for the air heater Control Software.
  5. Drain Pump – Pumps out condensed humidity and cooling valve water that accumulates in the sump.
  6. Sump NTC – Used as a feedback for the Auto-Dry Cycle termination algorithms (apart from being used in heated wash cycles).
  7. Condenser Duct – Process air goes through condenser duct to “get dry” – humidity is condensed and drained out of the “all-in-one” washer/dryer.
  8. Cooling Valve – Used to spray water into the condenser duct, to cool down the process air and condense humidity.

Below is an illustration showing what each component used during the dry cycle because it’s here where most of us get a little confused.

Dry Cycle - Illustration

Here is the button dance to access the service diagnostic mode. Assuming you successfully entered the mode, any stored error codes show now. The latest shows first, then subsequent ones. They’re going to be the normal format of F#E#. Refer to the next section and look up your error code.

I didn’t include the troubleshooting steps for each code because they should be in the tech sheet information stored in your machine. You can find it under the top panel, sitting on top of the dispenser assembly.

Activating the Service Diagnostic Mode

 

Error Codes - Page 1

 

Error Codes - Page 2

To exit the diagnostic mode or Service Test Cycle, scroll to the top of the Diagnostics Home screen, press the < button in the top left corner of the screen TWO TIMES, then press the HOME button.

Basic Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting these machines isn’t rocket science, but it might be a little different from what you’ve seen before. Here are a few quick steps to get you close. If all these check OK, we’ll be glad to help narrow the problem to the likely cause.

 

NO POWER

  • For a “no power” problem, take the obvious steps first. Confirm input power to the machine. If there is none, check the breaker or outlet at the wall behind the machine.
  • If everything checks OK, the ACU (main) or HMI (interface) boards could be the cause.
  • Always confirm good connection between the two boards. It’s not common but has been known to come up every now and then.

 

CYCLE WON’T START

  • Is the child lock activated? Don’t be fooled by this one!
  • Check the door lock. Sometimes the door lock won’t make a sound when it should. Listen for the lock trying to lock the door. If you don’t hear it, start there.
  • If the lock and strike look OK, suspect and harness or board (main or interface)

 

DOOR WON’T LOCK

  • Make sure the door shuts without forcing.
  • With the door shut, the lock should try to lock.
  • If the lock doesn’t lock, suspect the lock or the main control (ACU).

 

DOOR WON’T UNLOCK

  • Maybe a power cycle will cure this. Unplug the machine and let it sit for at least five minutes.
  • Plug it back into the wall, and wait for another five minutes or so. The door should unlock during this time.
  • Follow this procedure to manually unlock the door:

 

How to Manually Open a Locked Door

We hope this mini manual helps with some basic troubleshooting to get your machine running again. Neli loves helping you find out what’s going with your appliance and getting our virtual hands dirty to help you fix it, too.

As always, remember you have someone ready to help. Neli is always ready to lend a hand. Just go online and set up an appointment with one of us, and we’ll do our best to solve the problem.