I’m going to talk about one of Whirlpool’s newer front load washers, and why not? They’re state-of-the-art machines that have some new features that people want and never expected. 

The Load and Go feature, dry option, and front door display are handy and convenient, and the WiFi feature is starting to catch on. But, that’s not the real reason I’m writing this today. 

I’m reviewing the error codes for the WFW9620H, and recommendations on solving the problem.  

We all know that at some point, the machine will need some work. The reality is probably not that much. 

Thankfully, they’re straightforward in their design, and that means typical Whirlpool reliability. 

Assuming you’re taking it easy with your machine and you’re not treating it like it’s invincible (it isn’t), this design is destined for longevity. People love front load washers but their reputation of smelling bad, walking during spin, and just being noisy is overblown in my opinion. 

Trust me, I’ve worked on more front load washers than I can count. That’s not because they break often, but because there are so many out there. Still popular because they fit nicely in homes with big families or anyone wanting a dependable washer for that all-important wash day!

When I find one that’s falling apart, I can tell what happened in most cases. More often than not, the salesman or someone else implied the washer could handle any load and that it was OK to overload the machine. That is bad advice on every level.

A machine won’t run well if it’s constantly overloaded. It wears out much quicker and won’t perform as designed. My point is don’t wash a load that you obviously have to force into the basket. Try removing half and see what happens. 

All of a sudden, your clothes are cleaner, better smelling, and less wrinkled. And, all that was needed is to cut the load down to a manageable size that the machine can handle easily. 

Ok, that was my tip for the day! Now onto the error codes to help you troubleshoot your machine…

Service and Fault Codes header

F0E1 – Load in drum during Clean Washer cycle

  • Run clean washer cycle only with an empty drum

F0E2 -Oversuds

Excessive suds in washer. Washer is running a suds reduction routine. If the washer is unable to correct the problem, this may indicate:

  • Not using HE detergent
  • Excessive detergent usage
  • Check pressure hose connection from tub to maintain control 
  • Check if hose is pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air

F0E4 – High temp error, wash cycle

  • Make sure inlet hose is connected to a cold water faucet
  • Check wash heating element

F0E5 – Off Balance Load

  • Load could be unbalanced or too large
  • Avoid tightly packing the load 
  • Avoid washing single items

F1E1 – Main relay open or shorted

  • Main relay issue
  • Replace ACU

F3E1 – Pressure sensor signal missing or out of range

  • Replace the water level pressure sensor

F3E2 – Wash NTC open or shorted

F3E5 – Dry NTC open circuit fault

Fault is displayed if dry temperature sensor is out of range, or open circuit or short circuit is detected. 

  • The function is still operable, but the dry function will not operate

F3E6 – Accelerometer error

  • Check ACU 

F4E1 – Wash heater relay error or no feedback signal

  • Error is generated when the ACU cannot detect the temperature rise of the wash heater

F4E2 – Wash heater relay error

  • Check wash heating element

F4E4 – Blower error

  • Check the dry blower motor

F5E2 – Lock failure.

  • Check the door lock system

F5E3 – Unlock failure.

  • Check the door lock system

F5E4 – Door not open error

  • Make sure to open and close the washer/dryer door between cycles

F6E1 – No communication from the HMI detected by ACU

  • Check or replace the HMI (user interface)

F6E2 – No communication from the ACU detected by the HMI

  • Check for power to the ACU

F6E3 – No communication from the MCU detected by the ACU

  • Replace ACU

F7E2 – MC/MCU over temp error

MC/MCU over current error/internal failure.

  • Check for obstruction between spin basket and outer tub
  • Check harness continuity and connections between ACU and motor

F7E8 – MC/Motor over temp error

  • Check for obstruction between spin basket and outer tub 
  • Check harness continuity and connections between ACU and motor

F7E9 – Motor will not turn (Locked Rotor)

  • Check for obstruction between spin basket and outer tub
  • Check harness continuity and connections between ACU and motor

F7E10 or F7EA – Motor disconnected error

  • Check harness continuity and connections between ACU and motor

F7E12 or F7EC – MC/MCU Overload

  • Check for obstruction between spin basket and outer tub
  • Check harness continuity and connections between ACU and motor

F8E1 – Long Fill

  • Check fill hoses
  • Confirm water coming into machine from faucet
  • Confirm operation of water inlet valve. Replace if valve vibrates but does not allow water to flow

F8E3 – Overflow

  • Make sure drain hose and drain pump filter are not plugged
  • Verify functionality of water inlet valve, water level sensor, and drain pump
  • Confirm operation of water level sensor, drain pump, and recirculation pump

F9E1 – Long drain

  • Check drain hose installation for proper height, check drain hose and filter for obstructions, and make sure drain hose is not sealed into drain pipe 
  • Check functionality of drain pump

FCE0 or F12E0 – Communication between the Human Machine Interface and Wi-Fi Module has not been detected

  • Check harness continuity between the HMI and Wi-Fi Module


As always, we hope our posts offer a big hand up and allow you to troubleshoot and repair your washer whenever it decides to take a break (pun intended :)). 

But remember, Neli is always here ready to help with troubleshooting or a repair that might stump you. Just book an appointment and we’ll be right over, virtually, that is. 

Till Next Time…

Thomas @ Neli

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