DIY Appliance Repair | Bosch Dryer Error Codes

The error codes in this section refer to Bosch’s NEXXT dryer series (circa 2006). They’re good machines like many Bosch products. Just like any others, they have their own set of problems. However, the basic and common problems universal to all dryers give Bosch owners headaches, too. 

An example is the problem of blocked or restricted air flow. Most manufacturers publish customer error codes that don’t require service by a professional technician. The codes represent a problem the consumer should understand and take responsibility for solving. 

The most common consumer error code with a Bosch dryer is an E01 or E03 code. Either of these translate to an airflow problem. Restricted (i.e. crushed vent at the back of the dryer) airflow or a blocked vent directly contribute to one or both of the codes. 

Overheating happens with restricted airflow, while under heating (i.e. my dryer doesn’t heat) occurs when temps rise quickly because of a blocked vent, and the heat turns off too soon because the thermistors sense the temperature is satisfied and shuts down the heater, leaving warm, moist air inside the dryer. 

To help prevent heat related issues, always keep the lint screen clean. It’s best to clean it after every load. A lint screen that’s full of lint or clogged from dirt has the same effect as a blocked or restricted vent. 

Accessing the Error Codes

During normal operation, no codes show up, but if there is an airflow problem, the dryer control will notify you via the display on the console. Consumer codes E01 or E03 show up in this case. All other error codes require that you enter the diagnostic test mode. Here are the steps: 

  1. Press and hold the START/STOP and DELICATES buttons and turn the cycle selector knob to EXTRA DRY-REGULAR/COTTON. 
  2. Push the START/STOP button and scroll through any existing codes. 
  3. Exit the test mode by returning the cycle selector knob to the OFF position. 

Bosch NEXXT Dryer Error Codes

E01, E11, E12 - Overheating. Presumably caused by blocked airflow. Bosch does a good job at detecting this condition, but always clean the lint screen and verify that your vent from the dryer to the outside isn’t crimped or crushed, or clogged at the end of the vent that exits the house. 

E03 or E13 - There are multiple reasons for this error. Bosch sets the maximum drying time at 4 hours, which is a very long time for one drying cycle. The first and most common cause is a load that’s too large. Clothes need room to move, similar to that of a washer. 

Another cause is blocked or restricted airflow creating a low heat condition. Once again, make sure the lint screen and vent are clean and clear.

This condition could be an open heating element. With a gas dryer, the ignitor or some other issue will cause this error. 

Moisture sensing strips which are two curved, metal strips just inside the dryer door might have dirt or a buildup of residue caused by dryer sheets. It’s a simple matter to use vinegar or glass cleaner to remove the buildup.  

If nothing seems to work and you still see the same issue, it’s time to contact Neli. We can help you troubleshoot any problem and get your dryer up and running inexpensively and without the hassle of scheduling on-site service! 

E17 - Lint screen temperature sensor error. Most times the harness that connects to the sensor lost its connection because of vibration or age. Worst case is the sensor failed and needs replacing. The sensor is a simple NTC thermistor (negative temperature coefficient).  

E18 - Heater temperature sensor error. Once again, check the harness that connects to the NTC thermistor. Age and vibration are the main culprits. Check the thermistor for resistance that increases as temperature decreases (NTC). 

E20 thru E26 - Defective main control. If you see this error, try unplugging the unit for 10 seconds and try again. If either of the errors show up, you’ll have no choice but to replace the main control. 

We hope this information gets you ahead of the problem you’re having with your dryer. We understand the frustration of not having the knowledge or experience to repair your appliances. That’s why Neli exists. 

We’re a group of experienced career appliance technicians with a collective knowledge of the same issues you face with your appliances. The big difference is that we’ve seen it all and mastered each problem. 

The techs at Neli stand ready to help with any problem home appliance related. Why not check us out here and see what everyone is talking about! 

If you like what you read here today, or if you discover any mistakes, please let us know. We love to hear from you! 

 


What do your Whirlpool Duet Hybrid Dryer error codes mean? | DIY Appliance Repair

Have you ever been blindsided by an error code from your dryer and you realize you don’t have a clue what to do next? Don’t feel alone, we all have at some point. As usual, Neli is at your service! Today’s list of dryer error codes applies to Whirlpool’s Duet dryer models, and many will crossover to others. 

Please refer to our other lists for your particular model. More lists are coming, so be sure to check back for more. In the meantime, remember you can always contact us to set up a virtual appointment with one of our certified technicians. 

We’ll discuss the issue on the phone (optional, of course) and we can also stream live video and voice to help you pinpoint the problem and make the repair or we’ll get the correct part number if needed. Gotta love it! 

  

PF - Power Failure. This is a useful indicator that tells you anytime the dryer loses power while it’s running. When you restore the power, press CANCEL to reset the display or START to continue the existing cycle. It’s a good idea to find out why the dryer lost power. Maybe a failed breaker, loose or burnt power cord pigtail connections. 

L2 or F4E4 - Low Line Voltage. The L2 leg of the 240Vac is missing according to the control. To confirm, check the voltage at the terminal block at the back of the dryer. If you don’t know how, contact us right away and we can show you via video chat. You will need a multimeter for this. We can help you with that, too.  

If you have a meter and you’re comfortable using it, check the incoming voltage at the terminal block for 240 Vac. The L2 leg supplies power to the heater, providing 240 Vac at the heater terminals. 

Confirm all connections are tight (not just snug). A loose connection here causes eventual arcing and overheating at the block, sometimes melting the wire completely off. Replace or repair any connection that seems suspect to you. You need to err on the side of caution. Don’t take chances. Confirm every connection is in their proper place! You know what to do if you have questions. 

F1E1 - Main control or user interface (UI) control failure. Most times, this represents a communication fault between the main control and UI. Try cycling the power to the dryer and try again.

F2E1  - Stuck UI button. The control sees a stuck button somewhere on the user interface (UI). You can try rubbing your fingers across the buttons to free them up.

F3E1 or F3E2 - Outlet thermistor failure. Check the outlet thermistor wiring first. Repair or replace the harness when necessary. The resistance of the thermistor is about 10K ohms at room temperature.

F3E5 - The control is sensing connector P14 on the main control is loose or disconnected. Check and correct. 

F3E6 - Moisture sensor failure. The first place to check is the sensor connections. They tend to get damaged when the dryer is serviced and the harness is not tucked away before closing up the machine.

F3E7 - Moisture sensor shorted. Look for a metal object stuck under the two metal sensor strips. Sometimes, broken zippers and hairpins end up there. Remove any obstruction and then clean the sensor strips with rubbing alcohol. As usual, check the sensor harness, too. 

F4E1 - Heater relay failure. The symptom here is likely no heat. They locate the heater relay on the main control and is non-serviceable.

F4E3 or AF - Restricted or blocked air flow. There are three things to check for this error. A blocked lint screen, blocked or crushed vent, or the blower isn’t turning. Check the vent for proper airflow. If that’s good, confirm the blower is turning at the correct speed. If not, it might be stripped on the motor shaft or a belt might be slipping, too. Also, a foreign object like a sock or other garment might cause a restriction. 

F6E1 or F6E2 - Communication error. A loss of communication between the user interface (UI) and the main control. Try cycling power as with other errors, but this one is likely to stay. The problem is you can’t tell which board lost communication, but most times it’s caused by the main control.

This concludes the list of Whirlpool Duet Hybrid error codes. We hope you find it useful. Regardless of the problem, know that when we work together, we can fix it right. Please feel free to reach out to us anytime you need our help. You can reach us here

If you find a mistake, let us know. We aren’t perfect but we like to think that with your help, we’ll get close! That said, we welcome your comments below.. Tell us how you feel and how we can improve to make Neli the place for DIY’ers like yourself and for appliance repair help and information!


What do your Whirlpool Cabrio Dryer error codes mean? | DIY Appliance Repair

Whirlpool Cabrio Dryer Error Codes

The codes listed in this section apply to the older, original Cabrio dryers circa 2007. In the early days of self-diagnostics, error codes were sparse and applied to major malfunctions. Later in this list, we’ve included codes for the 2015 Cabrio dryer, too.

AF – Exhaust air flow restriction. The detection of restricted air flow relies on the changes in the outlet thermistor. Look for a crushed vent or lint somewhere in the vent system, especially at the end of the vent that exits your home.

PF – Power failure. This happens when power is interrupted while the dryer is running. Press START to continue the cycle or STOP to clear the PF from the display. If the code reappears, check the pigtail (power cord) for damage or bad connections.

F-01 – Main control failure. Try unplugging the dryer for 5 minutes, then apply power again.

F-02 – User interface (UI) keypad failure. Another sign of UI failure is a constant beeping. On these older models, they sold the UI keypad as a separate part or as a console assembly.

F-22 or F-23 – Exhaust thermistor failure. This thermistor sits next to the thermal fuse on the blower housing. I’ve seen only a few go bad, which explains why the error is rare. If the thermistor checks good and the error reappears, suspect the harness or more likely, the control.

F-26 – Drive motor failure. First, check the connector at the motor. Look for burnt contacts or a loose connection.

F-28 or F-29 – Moisture sensor failure. Check the harness between the moisture sensor and the control. Sometimes the connectors fall off from vibration or from someone accidentally pulling on them during dryer disassembly. Check for damage to the sensor.

F-31 – Low L2 voltage. The control senses that the L2 leg of the 240 Vac is below 30 volts. L2 supplies the second leg of the 240 Vac power to the heater. Check the house breaker. If it’s tripped, try resetting it and check the pigtail (power cord) on the back of the dryer and the connector. Sometimes the wires of the cord come loose, overheat, and break off at the terminal block.

Either leg of the AC voltage could be lost, but, the dryer won’t turn on if L1 is missing. If everything looks OK, set your meter to high AC volts and check for 240 volts at the outside terminals of the terminal block. Check from neutral to L1 for 120 Vac and from neutral to L2 for 120 Vac. If the voltages aren’t correct, call a licensed electrician to troubleshoot the issue. Your dryer needs 240 Vac for normal operation.   

F-47 – NOT USED

If any of this seems intimidating, our you're not sure what to do, you can set up an appointment with us and we'll walk you through each one!

Whirlpool 2015 Cabrio Dryer Error Codes

 

F1E1 – Stuck motor relay on the control. The only option here is a new EOC or electronic control board.

F1E3 – Wrong EOC installed. Double check the model number before ordering your new board. Always use ALL the numbers in the model number. The last number is the engineering version. Very important!

F2E1 – Stuck button on the user interface. Sometimes you can release the key, but the fix won’t last long.

F2E4 – User interface software error. This is an internal board failure and the only solution is a new user interface.

F3E1 – Exhaust thermistor failure. Check the harness from the thermistor to the control. Measure the resistance across the terminals and look for about 10K ohms at room temperature. It doesn’t have to be exact, but it should be close.

F3E2 – Moisture sensor failure. Check the harness between the moisture sensor and the control. Sometimes the connectors fall off from vibration or from someone accidentally pulling on them during dryer disassembly. Check for damage to the sensor.

F3E3 – Inlet thermistor failure. Always check the harness at the thermistor and the thermistor itself. Look for a reading of about 50K ohms at room temperature.

F4E1 OR F4E2 – Heater relay failure. Check the harness at the board and the heater.

F4E3 – Airflow restriction. With blocked or restricted air flow, clean and/or repair the vent at the back of the dryer. Also, check and clean the end of the vent where it exits the home.

F4E4 – Supply voltage error. The control senses that the L2 leg of the 240 Vac is below 30 volts. L2 supplies the second leg of the 240 Vac power to the heater. Check the house breaker. If it’s tripped, try resetting it and check the pigtail (power cord) on the back of the dryer and the connector. Sometimes the wires of the cord come loose, overheat, and break off at the terminal block.

Either leg of the AC voltage could be lost, but the dryer won’t turn on if L1 is missing. If everything looks OK, set your meter to high AC volts and check for 240 volts at the outside terminals of the terminal block. Check from neutral to L1 for 120 Vac and from neutral to L2 for 120 Vac. If the voltages aren’t correct, call a licensed electrician to troubleshoot the issue. Your dryer needs 240 Vac for normal operation.   

F6E2 OR F6E3 – Communication failure. Loss of communication between the control and user interface. Try to cycle the power and restart.

We hope this list of error codes for your Cabrio helps get you to the cause of problem with your dryer. Our group of Neli certified appliance techs are here to help you, should you need our assistance.

As always, please feel free to contact us anytime with your DIY appliance repair needs. Did you learn something from our post today? Have any questions or want to offer up a compliment? Please leave your comments or questions below. We love you to hear from our readers!