In this edition of the DIY Appliance Repair Series, I will discuss three issues we’ve seen with this series of Whirlpool top load washer. The three problems are related to each other and caused by ONE thing. You’re probably going to hate me when I say this, but here goes. Overloading is the ONE thing that causes this problem.
In my other posts, I’ve stressed that overloading is the root cause of most washer problems. In the case today, it is the ONLY reason why the issues occur. They have nothing to do with quality or overuse. The machines will run a very long time if you keep the loads to standard size.
Consider the kind of mechanical forces at play when you’re washing a standard size load. You have a basket full of wet clothes, and a metal shaft in the center. The sheer weight of the wet clothes batters the shaft and continually pushes on the agitator as it moves to clean your clothes.
A standard size load is no problem for the washer and will do fine for years with that kind of use. I can say from experience what I’m saying is true, because I own a washer similar to the one pictured here. It’s September of 2020, and in January of 2021, that washer is six years old. 
I haven’t touched the washer for any reason. It is never overloaded and doesn’t see king-size blankets, etc. It runs great, isn’t noisy, doesn’t leak, and shows no signs of slowing down. I’ve checked the machine several times, and I haven’t found anything that needs attention.
My situation isn’t unusual. I see machines like this every day. But, I also see worn out washers wobble and leak, and they are only two years old. My point is this. Your washer really can do an excellent job for you, but you have to treat it for what it is – a machine. Manufacturers design machines for specific functions, and if you push them past their designed-in limits, problems happen.
What Exactly is Too Much Weight?
That’s a question I get almost every day. With washers today, a hefty dose of common sense applies. As a general rule of thumb for every load, a basket that is half-full of clothes is a standard size load for a top load. A front-load washer is a little more forgiving. After loading your clothes, you should see only about eight inches of clearance between the top of the basket and the top of the load. There are no exceptions to this rule. Please, heed the warning here. Too much weight causes early problems with your washer. Your washer today is nothing like the washers of fifteen years ago. Not even close.
Noisy and Leaking Greasy Water
If you ever have a noise issue or sometimes a greasy water leak under the machine, the first thing you want to check is the gearcase shaft (#5 in the picture). If it has fallen, it’s probably causing all of your issues.
By falling, I mean that the center shaft of the gearcase comes loose internally and drops down about a quarter-inch. That’s enough to ruin the bearing and cause it to start leaking oil. If you look under the machine (#16 in the picture), you can see a circle worn into the guard and an oily mess.
Because the shaft fell, everything attached to it also dropped. The drive belt pulley now makes contact with the guard, making a loud noise and wearing a circular hole into the bottom.
Unfortunately, the only fix for this problem is a new gearcase, belt, and cam assembly. I know this sounds like a big job, but the reality is that if you’re mechanically inclined and have power tools, we can walk you through this repair in about two hours.
Or, you can opt-out of the repair entirely and replace the washer. But, is that what DIYers do? The DIYers I talk to love to save money, and this is one of those times when you will save a LOT of money by doing it yourself.
Yes, it’s a lot of work, but it is worth the time and effort. When finished, you’ll have a great running washer and still have money left in your pocket.
Constant Unbalanced Loads and Not Draining
The third and most troublesome problem is that the washer gets to the point where it won’t drain and spin any load, regardless of size. This problem creeps up over time and eventually shows itself all at once.
When the problem starts, you notice that once in a while, the washer won’t spin, won’t drain, or both. It is intermittent, so it doesn’t stick out as a problem that needs fixing today. Then, all of sudden, one day, it won’t spin, drain, or wash. Why? You guessed right this time.
Top load washers today won’t let you slide when there are mechanical problems. They stop working and won’t budge until you do something. That something is to reach out to Neli. We can diagnose the problem and have you up and running in the shortest time possible!
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It spins but not all the way. Clothes are drippy wet. I have unplugged and plugged back in.
Hi Mary, thanks for reaching out. There are several reasons why your clothes end up soaked after a drain/spin. Look for an unbalanced load, or a mechanical issue for starters. To be sure, please set up an appointment with us and we’ll help you troubleshoot the issue and find out the real cause.
Regards,
Thomas
I have a whirlpool top load washer and it’s about 4 years old. I replaced the balancing rods and it still shakes and bangs. It still does some cycles where it starts up and spins fine and most of the time it’s shaking and banging hard. I keep my loads small hoping it helps but won’t. I would appreciate any help
Hi Matt, thanks for reaching out. Without a model number it’s just a guess as to why this is happening. Some WP top loaders have a part called the driven hub. If the teeth get worn down because of excess weight over time, the basket becomes loose and contributes to the out of balance condition you described. Also, rarely you will see the balance ring lose its water and cause a similar situation. And other times you might see a loose agitator but that makes a lot of noise and it’s obvious. Other than these issues, we might need to take a closer look. Book an appointment here, and we’ll help you get to the reason.
Thomas
I have a whirlpool top loading washer model LSR5233AW0 that will sometimes stop before the drain and rinse cycle. The timer will continue to the end and when we open the lid we see the tub filled with water. I can usually get the machine to go into the spin/drain cycle by turning the timer knob to the middle or so of the regular wash cycle and it finishes as it should. The pump was replaced 10 years ago and the lid switch appears to be in good shape and has continuity when checked with a meter. Do you have any troubleshooting ideas or what is causing this since it doesn’t happen all the time?
Hi Mark, thanks for the details. At first read, it sounded just like a failed or intermittent lid switch (still could be a possibility). Now, I’m thinking pressure switch or timer. It’s hard to say without seeing it happen. A suggestion is to set up a diagnosis appointment here on Neli so we can get to the bottom of this. Talk soon. Thomas
Hi I have an older whirlpool top load washer that won’t drain or move to rinse cycle it fills & agitates but won’t move past that
Hi Carol, without a full model number there really isn’t a way to pinpoint the problem. But, I could make a guess, but only a guess that it might be your lid switch. Again, it’s hard to know for sure without a model number.
I have a 2019 whirlpool top loader model#WTW4955HW1 that only flashes sensing code when in diagnostic mode. What part would I need? Machine will not start at all. Thanks.
Hi Michelle, the best way to help you is with an appointment so we can see what’s happening. Feel free to set up an appointment here. We’ll be glad to help!
Lid is in locked mode. Can’t run dionogstics?
Hello, and thanks for writing. Please follow these steps to unlock the lid:
1. Unplug the unit
2. Press and hold the start/cancel button while plugging unit back into the wall and wait 5 seconds before releasing.
3. Wait approximately 3 minutes and the lock should release. If not, you might have another, more serious problem that should be looked at.
Feel free to set up an appointment here. We’ll work with you to get your machine running!
Hi Robin, over the years, we found the very best and easiest way to clean any dispenser is with…wait for it…Scrubbing Bubbles! It does a phenomenal job with dispensers, especially moldy ones. Follow up with a spray bottle with clean water to rinse the gunk away. You’ll love it!
My Whirlpool isn’t spinning and draining
Hi Dyette! That’s never good! Stop by online to set up an appointment so we can figure it out!
Hello Thomas, I have a whirlpool quiet wash1 it’s ultimate care2 . We have a problem with the lid.when you close it it won’t start the washer .I think The metal lever that hits the panel to make the agitation start is broken. It won’t drain or start.
My daughter just bought a house that has a Whirlpool washer. Worked okay for a few weeks and now when you turn the knob for a normal load, it agitates and fills at the same time. It’s also not spinning out the water unless you use the quick wash cycle. Any suggestions?
We have a 4-5 year old whirlpool top loader washing machine and recently we are getting the UL error code and then the SD error code. We have tried turning if off and back on. Any suggestions
I have a whirlpool top load washer model WWT4850HW that is 2 years old. I replaced the suspension rods and it still shakes and bangs horribly, no matter what the size of the load. It begins each cycle without a problem, but in the rinse and final spins the problem starts. We have to stop it, rearrange the clothes and sometimes it works, though most of the time we have to cancel the cycle and start a spin and drain cycle (only cycle where the problem is not perceived) Could you guide what the problem could be?