WTW6120HC3 Whirlpool Top Load Washer Error Codes

WTW6120HC3 Whirlpool Top Load Washer

Welcome to another day in the life of the Whirlpool WTW6120HC3 Top Load Washer that is a giant step in the right direction towards a truly dependable washer.

So much talk is always about how appliances just don’t last anymore. I know none of the manufacturers are immune from complaints and issues, Whirlpool included.

While Whirlpool washers aren’t perfect, and I would be lying if I told you they are, I think that by today’s standards of quality across all manufacturers, Whirlpool washers meet expectations and don’t upset too many people.

That said, when I read over the tech sheets and service manuals, I once again recognize how they take a complex machine and keep it simple. That’s the key to their dependability, in my opinion.

I’m glad you’re here today reading this. If you’re here because there is a problem with your machine, don’t worry, Neli likely has the answer. Or if it’s a question, we have that answer, too. Our goal at Neli is to ensure that every contact you have with us is positive and your total satisfaction is paramount to us.

Let’s take a look at what makes your washer work its best, and to keep it working.

WTW6120HC3 Whirlpool Top Load Washer Error Codes

F0E2: Over Suds Condition Detected. This means that the control has detected too much detergent or suds in the tub via input from the water level pressure sensor. To fix this, run a rinse and spin cycle to remove the excess suds. You may also need to reduce the amount of detergent you use in future cycles.
F0E3: Overload Condition Detected. This means that the washer has detected too many items or too much weight in the tub. To fix this, remove some items from the washer and redistribute the load evenly. You may also need to select a larger load size or a different cycle for bulky items. Also, watch for a restriction as you try to rotate the basket by hand. That could mean a garment found its way between the tub and basket, preventing the basket from moving.
F0E4: Spin Limited by Water Temperature. This means that the washer has detected that the water temperature is too high for the selected spin speed. The max spin speed is locked to 500 RPM. To fix this, check the incoming water supply and make sure it is not too hot. You may also need to select a lower spin speed or a different cycle.
F0E5: Off Balance Load Detected. This means that the washer has detected an unbalanced load in the tub. To fix this, open the lid and redistribute the load evenly. You may also need to select a different cycle or a lower spin speed. And check for weak suspension. The basket should not bounce up and down more than once when pushed and let go.
F0E7: Load Detected When Running a Clean Washer Cycle. Remove garments any time you run a Clean Washer Cycle.
F0E8: Water Ring. You’ll see this code when too much residual water is detected after a cycle. A full drain and spin cycle should fix this.
F1E1: Main Control Fault. This means that the washer has detected a problem with the main control board (ACU). To fix this, unplug the washer for one minute and then plug it back in. If the error code persists, you may need to replace the main control board.
F1E2: Motor Control Fault (Over Voltage). This means that the washer has detected a problem with the motor control board. To fix this, unplug the washer for one minute and then plug it back in. If the error code persists, you may need to replace the ACU (motor control is built into this board).
F2E1: HMI Stuck Button. This means that the washer has detected that one of the buttons on the control panel (HMI) is stuck, or not responding. The most likely fix is a new HMI (control panel).
F2E2: HMI Disconnected. This usually occurs when the 5V output from the ACU to the HMI is missing, or the harness in between is defective.
F3E2: Pressure System Fault. The main control detects an out of range or absent pressure signal. To fix this, check the hose and make sure it is not kinked, pinched, clogged, or otherwise leaking air.
F3E3: Inlet Water Temperature Fault. The main control has detected the inlet thermistor is either shorted or open, meaning the water inlet valve needs replacing.
F3E5: Mini Bulk System Error. The bulk level sensor signal is out of range. Be sure to check the drawer for detergent.
F5E1: Lid Switch Fault. You’ll see this if the lid is locked, but the switch is open. The control is not sensing the strike in the lid lock.
F5E3: Lid Unlock Fault. The lid can’t unlock because there is too much weight on the lid that’s preventing the lid lock bolt from retracting. Or a buildup of dirt from use or other foreign material blocking operation. Also, if the lid won’t lock, the same things mentioned above could be the cause.
F5E4: Lid Not Opened Between Cycles. Always lift the lid between cycles or the control will throw this code. If you happen to press START with the lid open or you start too many cycles without opening the lid, you’ll see this code. (Ex. Restarting a cycle or changing to another cycle before opening the lid).
F6E1: Communication Error (HMI cannot “hear” the ACU). Check the harness connecting the HMI and ACU. The fix here is to replace the harness.
F6E3: Communication Error (ACU cannot “hear” the MCU. You may end up replacing the ACU, because the MCU is part of the ACU.
F7E1: Tachometer missing or Wrong Signal. The ACU cannot read the basket speed. That is most likely caused by the speed sensor built into the shift actuator. Replace the actuator.
F7E2: MCI Failure. This means that the washer has detected a problem with the motor or the ACU. Check the wiring and connections between the motor and the ACU.
F7E3 and F7E4: Basket Reengagement Failure. That happens when the control doesn’t receive confirmation that the shifter engaged the basket for spin or disengaged for agitation. Replace the shifter.
F7E5: Shifter Fault. This means that the washer has detected a problem with the shifter or the shifter mechanism. To fix this, check the wiring and connections between the shifter and the shifter mechanism. You may also need to replace the shifter or the shifter mechanism.
F7E6: Motor Circuit Open. Check the motor windings and incoming power from the ACU. It’s likely one of the windings is open, and a new motor will be needed.
F7E7: Motor Unable to Reach Target RPM. Check for obstructions. One of the most common places is between the basket and tub. Look for mechanical problems stopping the basket from spinning freely.
F7E8: Motor Drive Module Over Temp. The motor control is incorporated into the ACU. It’s possible the ACU will overheat and will need replacing.
F7E9: Locked Rotor. Again, here is another result of obstructions between the basket and tub. After removing the obstruction, normal operation should return.
F7EA: Motor Phase Lost. One or more of the three motor phases is lost or under the current threshold. Check the drive motor windings.
F8E1: Long Fill. The control has detected that the water supply is taking too long to fill the tub. Check the hot and cold water hoses, and make sure they are not kinked, pinched, and the screens are not clogged. If there are no issues, then the water inlet valve ass’y is likely at fault.
F8E2: Dispenser System Failure. The control senses the bulk pump is “on” but the current draw is outside of acceptable levels. Replace the dispenser.
F8E3 or F8E6: Overflow Condition. The water level sensor detected that the water level is too high in the tub. Check the water inlet valve first to be sure one of the valves isn’t stuck open allowing water to free-flow into the tub. Another possibility is the pressure transducer on the control not detecting water level properly.
F8E6: Water Hazard. This means that the washer has detected a potential flood condition. To fix this, turn off the water supply and unplug the washer. You may also need to contact a qualified service technician to inspect the washer for leaks or damage.
F9E1: Long Drain. The control detected that the water is taking too long to drain from the tub. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not kinked, pinched, or clogged. You may also need to check the drain pump and make sure it is not faulty or damaged.

Virtual Appliance Repair with Neli is Smart

We hope you’ll find what you need to keep your washer in its best shape. But if you hit a wall and need help, know that we’re here for you. People say we’re pretty good at helping folks, and the virtual part is a big hit with DIYers and anyone else in need of help fixing their stuff! Set up a virtual appointment and we’ll be right there.